So like any good hacker, I took to the internet with a flurry of searches. In fact, the car worked pretty darn good, so I was even more motivated to find out what was up with the charger. This let me keep going with the car for proof-of-concept testing. I took to using six independent 12v DC battery chargers while I was messing around with the charger. The lights would blink, it would take *some* current (as shown by a Kill-a-Watt) but wouldn't actually charge the batteries. It was kind of strange, it would behave like it was working. Like I mentioned in the previous log entry, the charger, while nice, didn't work. This will then let the AC panel move around. There are three screws on the bottom of the charger on the right side with the AC input wire. Now, onto step #3, removing the AC panel. Like I mentioned earlier, I pulled the clear wire on the sensor cable so that it was even with the black wire on the plug end.Īnd this yielded a very nice looking sensor plug. There is also a lot of silicone all over the boards to help prevent damage from vibration. You can see the charge and sensor wires entering the charger on the top left and the AC wires entering on the lower right. It has a foam gasket, so it may be slightly stuck to the body of the charger. Remove the eight Phillips screws on the top of the unit, and the yellow cover will come off. Now it was time for step #2, open the charger. I fixed that, once I was in the charger, by simply pulling the clear wire into the charger until it was the same length as the black wire. However, you can see that the wires are slightly different lengths now.
Once I had the pins in place, I put the orange end back onto the connector, shrunk the heat-shrink, and called it job well done. Once I had the new pin in place, I put the red seal back onto the wires and inserted the pins back into the plug in their original orientation. While I was at it, I slipped some new heat-shrink tubing onto the wire for use later. So I simply stripped the wire back and soldered it into the end of the pin. Deutsch plugs get crimped with a special 4 way circular crimper, which I did not have. Amazingly enough, I actually had one of these pins, but only one. I could have attempted to re-crimp the wire on, or I could just replace the pin. I could have just soldered the wire back onto the end of the connector. There are a lot of ways I could have fixed this particular plug. In my case, I removed the orange plastic end-cap, and then used a pick to pry up the plastic latches holding the individual pins in place, the orange silicone seal came along with the wires.
#Change quip battery how to
There are YouTube videos online that describe how to take the plugs apart to get to the individual connectors. The connector is what is called a Deutsch plug. Either way, watch the wires, you don't want to break anything!
I'm unsure if this was like this before, or if it was caused when I removed the charger from the car. In the picture below, it was the black wire on the smaller 2-pin connector. When I did, I noticed that one of the connectors, what I believe to be the temperature sensor, was broken.
Once I had the charger disconnected from the car, I brought it inside for the next steps. Watch the ground screw on the right-hand side.
The cables are kind of hard to get at, but aren't too bad. You will see the QuiQ on the right.ĭisconnect the charger and unbolt from the car. Unclip from the lights and you can remove it in one piece. Its about 4 bolts, four plastic clips (which will invariably break when you try to remove them) and the whole operation should swing away from the car by some pivots up by the lights. I would strongly recommend disconnecting the main battery pack and removing the front plastic on the car. On my Zenn, this was a fairly straight-forward process. First things first, removing the charger from the car.
#Change quip battery install
#Change quip battery Pc
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